Most (90%) of Yosemite is managed as Wilderness (essentially everything more than 1 mile from a road). The word wilderness is best defined by what the law says, not by anything else (1964 PL 88-577 Wilderness Act -- Areas where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain. This results in basic rules such as at least 5,000 acres, no construction, no vehicles. ). It is also where you see fewer people. We have spent several consecutive days on trails, and encountered less than 5 people. You have to walk to see it. Horses are allowed on most of the trails -- like everything this is both good and bad (it means trails need to be well constructed, but also that trails can be dusty).

To visit the wilderness, you need to know the rules, which change from year to year (so look at the Yosemite National Park Website). Of course, if you enter on foot on a trail, you are following the rules from some bordering National Forest.

• For the introduction to many of the trails, I like Schaffer's book: Yosemite National Park: A Complete Hikers Guide This provides an overview of the trails and has a major section on the origins of the valley.
• Two books by Muir The Yosemite and My First Summer in the Sierra (Nature Library, Penguin) are important reading. Expecially the discussion of day hikes in the first book. Follow Muir's suggestions carefully. Maybe look at a map first. Some of them make the Half Dome day hike look easy.
• While Secor's book covers the Sierra generally it includes many areas of Yosemite, The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, and Trails and is the best overall summary of trails, off-trail, and climbing for the Sierra.
• For hiking in the Sierra, you never fail with Starr's Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region, though it may depend on which version of this out of print book you have. Trails are moved, roads are built, some roads are closed. The descriptions are brief, but it is an invaluable aid in planning. But get a recent map before depending on the details.
• If the standard Muir Trail from Whitney to Yosemite gets dull or crowded, try the alterate route described by Roper. The Sierra High Route: Traversing Timberline Country
• Sierra North (2005 edition). These 100 hikes describe most of the obvious trails and give some indication of how long it usually takes for the hike. Combined with maps, it is useful for planning. Many of the routes cover Yosemite. Sierra North: Backcountry Trips in Californias Sierra Nevada
• For hiking generally, you may want to start with the book by Colin Fletcher that started many of us. The Complete Walker IV

Backcountry (wildneress) overnight stays vary by the month, and are heavily influenced by the snow levels. Statistics (taken from the Park Service site) show variations by year. Note that January 1997 was the year of the flood -- heavy rain on top of early snow melted the snow and flooded the backcountry streams, and the valley. Several bridges were washed out -- like all natural events, traces remain but now have become part of the landscape.
Matterhorn Canyon. This is the only place where I have encountered lupine so thick over such a large area that you can smell the aroma. Lupine are not famous for their aroma, mostly because it is weak.	From Burro Pass you get a good view of Matterhorn Canyon. I have also seen the Matterhorn, and the one in Yosemite is not even close, hence no picture of it.	Smedberg Lake gets PCT traffic and those on long loops.
Also in the region north of Tioga Road, you find Benson Lake. I have seen it called the Benson Riveria (a short detour off the trail for the PCT thru-hikers). The camping is on the broad sandy beach. It has all the advantages of a beach, and all the disadvantages.	Kerrick Canyon has very little traffic. It is not a secret, it is just a long hike from any direction.	Arndt Lake is a short detour, but like all lakes there is always somewhere to camp (as always at least 100' from water).
When you reach the top of almost any ridge you are rewarded by outstanding views. Such as this from near Sunrise High Sierra Camp
High ponds are slowly becoming meadows as at Ten Cloud.	The metal signs with cut out letters are still common on backcountry trails.	Yes, Half Dome is backwards. You get this view from Clouds Rest. You can also see Cathedral Rocks and El Capitan in the background. Much more interesting than the view from the other side. And you look down on Half Dome.
Iseberg Pass provides access to the upper Merced Canyon. Also you see almost no one. The access is from the forest to the south. The trail down the Merced to Yosemite Valley is a much longer trip.		The southern reaches of the park have many opportunities for hiking without crowds.

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